The two-day scientific conference, HPCI exhibition and gala dinner in South Africa from 4-5 September exceeded Coschem’s expectations.

The scientific programme was professional, informative and well-rounded including a range of diverse topics and professional presenters. This year the conference ran alongside the HPCI exhibition, which was hosted at the Gallagher Conference Centre, Midrand. Below is a summary of the presentations.

The first HPCI exhibition, exclusively devoted to ingredients for home and personal care products, was well supported with 25 international exhibitors representing 87 international companies.

In closing, members donned their Casablanca inspired outfits and congregated at Montecasino, Fourways. A memorable evening was enjoyed by all, as we were blown away by the amazing entertainers, the Belting Betties. Their performance was phenomenal, and they had everyone on the dance floor after their first set.

Session 1

Chairperson: Rene Spada, Evonik Africa, South Africa

Recent Developments of Sunscreens : UV or Light Protection

Juergen Lademann, Charite- Universitaetsmedizi Berlin, Germany

Prof Dr Dr-Ing Lademan showed through research done at Universitaetsmedizi Berlin, using Electron Paramagnetic Resonance measurements that it is no longer good enough just to protect the skin against UV light, but that light protection is needed as well. The reason is that free radicals are generated in the complete solar light spectrum which is important for signalling processes. Should the critical threshold be exceeded, it can destroy cells and cell components. We therefore have to ensure that sunscreen formulation contains antioxidants to neutralise the excess free radicals the body cannot neutralise by itself, while it is also important that we should increase our antioxidant intake orally as well.

Intellectual Property, Indigenous Knowledge, and the Biodiversity Act Effect on

Cosmetic Product Development

Janusz Luterek, Hahn & Hahn, South Africa

Janusz paper made it clear how complex the legislation regarding intellectual property, indigenous knowledge and biodiversity is today, with many role players involved. He took us through the different processes which are crucial to be followed strictly to protect the work done by a company and to adhere to the entire requirement to make the work done legal. This is now further

complexed due to a new act that became law in August – Indigenous Knowledge Systems Act (6 of 2019), which protects indigenous knowledge passed down through generations. The Patents Act was amended to take the new law into consideration. It is clear that no company or individual who wants to explore South Africa’s rich fauna, cannot even start the process without the involvement of an expert.

An Indigenous South African Plant Targeting Antibiotic Resistance and the

Pathogenic Factors associated with Acne Vulgaris

Isa Lambrechts, University of Pretoria, South Africa

Isa has done wonderful work showing that the antioxidant capacity of a semi-pure ethanolic fraction of the leaves of the plant family Lamiaceae used at 10% in a gel formulation was effective against various enzymes involved in inflammatory action and antibiotic resistance associate with the disease (in vitro studies). In vivo studies showed that this fraction was non-irritating and effective against acne after 14 – 28 days of consecutive use twice a day.

Session 2

Chairperson: Beverley Summers, Sefako Makgatho Sciences University, South Africa

Stop Motion : Languages of City Life: Architectural Fabric and Facets of Human Existence

Hugh Fraser, Paragon Architects, South Africa

Stop motion is a term for time-sequenced still photography which creates a stilted visual image, similar to very early motion pictures. Hugh Fraser is widely-travelled and has an architect’s eye for form and light. This refreshing and imaginative presentation was an artful and artistic compilation of images from cities of the world, from massed umbrella ‘dances’ across a rain-glossed intersection of the busiest of Tokyo’s streets to the concrete curves of Sydney Opera House and a disused bus terminus in South America. It was a novel view of the world that took us all on a brief but exciting journey and made us realise afresh what an amazing world we live in.

A Multi-Lamellar Encapsulated form of Retinol proves Superiority in Formulation Stability,

Skin Penetration and Superior Skin Rejuvenating Results

Caroline Cochrane, The Care Co, South Africa

This presentation was a novel look at a well-known active. Caroline began with some basic but helpful information on the range of vitamin A-related actives in terms of their safety and efficacy. Penetration of the skin by retinol was improved by multi-lamellar micro-encapsulation, which translates into wrinkle-reduction in clinical studies.

The Role of Fermentation and Natural Actives in the Wrinkle Revolution

Bianca Fibrich, University of Pretoria, South Africa

Bianca is a PhD student at the University of Pretoria. She reported on the potential for the fermentation process to enhance activity. The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity of Persicaria senegalensis or Snake Root. In addition to fermentation, gold nanoparticles were used to improve uptake in an attempt to modulate the anti-aging activity of the plant extract. The processes have had mixed success and the work is on-going.

Enduring Care and Protection for Damaged Hair

Vinayak Rupnar, Dow Chemical IMEA GmbH, Dubai

Vinayak Rupnar is a returning speaker to the SA Coschem Conference. His presentation this year covered the background on the major causes of hair damage, which are combing, heat, colourants and straightening/curling processes as well as lifestyle, atmospheric pollution and of course ageing. He illustrated a range of methods that are used by his organization to test parameters that can assess damage and repair through mechanical challenges (e.g. repeat combing), tress testing and gloss assessment. He presented data on the ‘repair’ effects of a polymeric formulation which coats the hair and creates a hydrophobic sheath, withstands multiple washes and yet does not create build-up on the hair. The product also protects against hair breakage

Session 3

Chairperson: Helen Playdon, The Care Co, South Africa

If Continuous Visualisation of Facial Skin Hydration is the Ideal – How can we Assess in

Regular Practice?

Beverley Summers, Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University, South Africa

To date there has been no perfect solution to satisfy the needs of consumers for moisturising treatments in different ethnic groups until continuous colour mapping analysis was developed in 2014 to enable a continuous visualization of facial skin moisturisation by capacitance measurements and barrier function measurements by transepidermal water loss. The results revealed the complexity of facial skin, and that gradients of skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, skin surface pH and sebum differ distinctively among different ethnic groups. The findings were that in all ethnicities facial skin hydration is inferior across the nasolabial fold cheek areas, though it is greater for Black African subjects (Fitzpatrick skin phototypes V-VI). These studies oppose to the belief that pigmentation is a driver for a better skin barrier, for subjects living in South Africa, and illustrated the beneficial short- and long-term moisturising effects of a moisturising cream using capacitance measurements. The new whole-face statistical approach has been taken to prove differences in skin parameters but also of moisturiser treatment that adds further to our understanding of the ethnic differences in skin physiology and product application.

Microorganisms in Cosmetics – Species, Resistances and Vulnerability

Vanessa Lahn, Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH, Germany

The presentation verified that personal care products have ideal conditions for many microorganisms to grow in, which have the propensity to products, as well as be pathogenic for the consumer. Therefore, the control of microbiological growth is fundamental for the safety of cosmetic products. Microorganisms were categorised, with particular emphasis on Gram negative and their variance in tolerance towards antimicrobial substances. There are a broad range of antimicrobial raw materials in the market and the importance of targeting specific microorgansims effectively was explained.

The African Opportunity

Beverley Gardner, Skyem Consulting, South Africa

The needs of Africans are often misunderstood. It has been found that many widely-held beliefs about innovation are in fact not true or conducive to innovative cultures.

In Africa, multi-millionaires will live ‘down the road’ from the poorest of the poor. Digital start-ups are working to help rural cattle-herders and shepherds. The presentation gave valuable insight in how to target and to reach these customers with pre-empting their needs in today’s modern Africa.

Business should build around what these consumers desire, and the message to businesses was to stop selling and start positioning rather. Brands need to shift from communication to connection, which is vital for the Afrillenial.

Session 4

Chairperson: Gillian Kuhn, Firmenich, South Africa

Clinical Efficacy Assessments to Evaluate Skin Barrier Repair and Protection Claims

Anina van der Walt, South Africa

Anina who specialises in the regulatory affairs for topical skin care focused on Vivo clinical assessment. The goal is to validate skin substantiation. She covered compromised skin and effect on barrier function. She then moved to product function and claim identification including skin protection, skin conditioning. The claims were focused on replenish or protect the skins moisture barrier. The other claim was to protect skin against environmental damage. Anina went through the protocol design stage focusing on Product specs, Guidelines, Variables, Instruments used, Results and Reporting. She ended off her talk discussing the Clinical Parameters.

Choice is Beautiful – Creating the Texture you like while Reducing the Amount of

Ingredients

Petra Kudla, Momentive Performance Materials GmbH, Germany

Petra’s talk was to discuss back to basics with regards to textures of creams and lotions. The more ingredients that are put into a cream formulation results in heavy loss of sensory appeal. The formulator today wants to use fewer ingredients with great appeal. Momentive have an ingredient that will enable a formulator to use less raw materials and will produce a richer product. Their ingredient can be used in a lamellar, emulsion hydrogel phase product. The product is a Polysilicon-34. The core is a polyacrylate which is surrounded by a silicone. The structure changes according to the pH you want to work in.

Importance of Standards of Essential Oils in South Africa used in the Cosmetic Industry

Karen Swanepoel, SA Essential Oil Producers Association, South Africa

Karen gave a talk on how the industry is busy setting up standards for essential oil production. She has worked extensively with Aubrey Parsons on this project as SA does not have any standards on this industry. A lot of studies have been performed on African Herbal oils and now the law is been revised. There has been a lot of interaction with farmers to repurpose their land into farms for growing indigenous plants for essential oil production. The UNIDO Program is designed to set standards and assist with job creation. At the moment there are only standards for food ingredients and not for essential oils.

In order to feature globally we need to distinguish South Africa against cheap Chinese knockoffs.

Currently we have good Academia and quality and we are currently only delivery 0.1% of the world market on essential oils. SA does approx. 300ton in essential oil production per annum. World trade is 200 million ton/pa. This is an industry that needs to be regulated and expanded on so we can compete globally.

Tailored Replenishment for Damaged African Hair

Lumbi Moyo, Croda, South Africa

Lumbi’s talk was on proteins that replenish damaged African hair. She discussed the definition of Proteomics; this is a way of identifying and quantifying the proteins that are left on the hair. This method shows the extent of damage to the hair after relaxing. It also gives a broader understanding of the composition of the hair. The hair is analyzed before and after relaxing and they were able to see the protein profile change. A 10% aqua solution of hydrolyzed keratin improves the condition of the hair making it healthy. Lumbi showed slides of the tensile strength breakpoint are increased with addition of hydrolyzed keratin.

Session 5

Chairperson: Lumbi Moyo, Croda, South Africa

Keynote Address – Innovating with Minimally Disruptive Formulations (MDF)

Tony O’ Lenick, Siltech LLC, USA, IFSCC International Speaker Programme

Tony firstly defined innovation and necessity to society. Innovation may not always mean coming up with something new but taking something that is proven to work and adjusting to produce something new or something customers may perceive different. It may also be defined as tweaking something that is proven to work but leaving the result the same as far as the customers can tell while improving on the financial and marketing aspects of the product. The former and latter being forms of minimally disruptive formulations (MDFs). MDFs help in reaching several goals such as creating new products, reducing costs and reducing the number or type of ingredients (for financial and/or marketing reasons). He gave an example on a case study with silicone polymers when added in small amounts to a formulation achieved desired properties that delighted consumers. The use of the chosen silicone polymers had the ability to lower the surface tension, alter the feel, cushion, playtime, gloss and give the perception the product was different from the formulation without the additive. MDFs are useful in introducing a new product to compete against a new entry into the market; to build and sustain the life of a proven product; meet consumer demand of having specific ingredients; to meet consumer demand for not having specific ingredients and save on costs or increase profits.

Halymenia Durvillei: Interest of the Alga for Skin Stressed by Exposome

Edith Filaire, Greentech, France

The presentation was based on a study to evaluate the effect of Halymenia Durvillei (Hd) active ingredient on reactive skin aggressed by exposome. Hd is a red alga belonging to the Rhodophycea family, is abundant in the Indian Ocean. An ex vivo model was used to investigate the effects of this active ingredient on inflammation and neurosensory discomfort (TVPV-1, NKR-1). An in vivo study was also performed in a panel of 25 volunteers using clinical and instrumental evaluations. The second objective of this study was to characterize the microbiome before and after 28 days of Hd active. Significant decreases of skin sensitivity, irritability, heat sensations, pain, flushes and redness were reported using the SS-10 sale after 28 days of repeated applications of Hd active ingredient application. The Hd active calmed feelings of discomfort and redness and controls the microvascularization. It also maintained the diversity of skin microbiota and reduced specific species, inducing redness.

A Jar is Born

Sean Kirkham, TEQAL, South Africa

This was a presentation took the audience through packaging manufacture/fabrication. The content included concept, component design, 3D printing of the design, injection mould design, mould manufacture, moulding, hot stamping/foiling and printing.

Processed Probiotics, the new revolution for a healthy beauty: Lactobacillus Plantarum Heal 19

Ev Suess, Symrise, Germany

The talk introduced Lactobacillus Plantarum Heal 19, produced through a unique process involving mild heating and spray drying of probiotics which kept the cell wall of the bacterium intact. Specific efficacy relied on the bacterium’s cell wall, with its original structure and full composition whole, it delivered the native benefits associated with living probiotics. It was recognized by the surface of skin’s cells and allowed highly effective interactions. HEAL 19 rebooted the skin’s instinctive defenses by regulating microbiota pathways, sensitivity modulation and barrier function strengthening. The bacterium was used in preserved formulations.

Session 6

Chairperson: Kim MacCallum, Vantage Specialty Chemicals, South Africa

3D Innovative Epidermis Models as a New Tool to Assess Tolerance of Cosmetic

Ingredients for Specific Applications

Anna Mommeja, Seppic, France

In vitro reconstructed human tissue models are recognized as being sensitive and reliable models to replace or reduce laboratory animal use in preclinical studies. Cosmetic and dermocosmetic products target sensitive populations, such as baby products and sometimes irritated skin.

This type of development is growing in popularity amongst many in Vitro testing facilities.

The study objective was to develop two new models: one “immature” epidermis model and one physically impaired/ damaged epidermis..

Anna mentioned how baby skin in 30% thinner. The structure is looser and sebum production is less. They tested different parameters to determine tolerance levels for baby skin. They also used a machine to create mechanical abrasions which would be the model for damaged or impaired functioning skin.

Different chemical ingredients can then then be tested to see how the reconstituted skin responds to both chemicals as well as treatments.

Transforming Textures of Personal Care Formulations

Anne Thomasson, Solvay, France

Transforming textures and customizable formulations are gaining momentum in the personal care industry. To answer these market needs, Solvay developed a novel emulsifying system enabling multifunctionality and innovative textures formulation with a nice sensory profile.

A really novel material that plugs a gap in the industry – oil gelling systems.

INCI Name – Cetyl Betaine (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Hydroxypropyl Guar

This system can be used at 3-5% and can load 60-80% oils.

Initially the product will be milky but if you add water slowly, the refractive indexes will match and the product will go clear.

Approx. 3% water should work for a clear product – if more is used – the product will go milky again.

Something really fun and open to all sorts of creative ideas.

Kinetic Study of Scalp Sensitivity Symptoms that occur on the Scalp of African Women

during Three Weeks, after a Single Wash using a Neutral Shampoo

Poonam Sewraj, L’Oréal, South Africa

Many African women experience scalp problems such as dandruff, irritation, dryness, itchiness and sensitivity. Identifying the sequence of events, timing of symptom occurrence and the mechanisms involved will help to advise and develop appropriate scalp care and most beneficial hair care grooming solutions.

Poonam did a lot of work with Prof Dlova from UKZN and presented some interesting finds.

She presented grooming habits of African woman and discussed discomforts they experience. It was noted that women use water free formulas in the form of hair foods to moisturize or soothe their scalp. Frequent use of such greasy products can generate build up, resulting in an occlusive effect, more so with the infrequent washing of hair, leading to an increased irritation.

Interestingly 31% of dandruff sufferers spoke of having an oily scalp and 48% spoke of a sweaty scalp.

One stark fact was that woman who kept their hair short and natural – didn’t suffer with dandruff.